Perfume in Ancient Egypt
Perfume was at the centre of aesthetics and therapeutics for both
men and women in Ancient Egypt. Although the techniques used are
mostly unrecorded, historians look to the literature of Greek and
Roman writers and relief paintings and artefacts to determine the
production, fashions and uses of perfume in this fascinating era.
The act of making perfume was considered an art form in Ancient
Egypt. The craftsperson was considered to be an artist and the profession
was open to women as well as men. The perfume making process of
extraction can be determined by reliefs on the walls of tombs in
Petosiris. These show that perfume making had an overseer, workers
who completed the extraction and a professional tester who completed
rigorous testing using the sense of smell.
The reliefs also pictorially detail two extraction processes. The
first process shown was an ancient mechanical extraction process
which was similar to wine production. This required a large bag
and two staffs which were used as a press. The second was a form
of chemical extraction with the assistance of heat and soaking in
alcohol. The processes are early versions of modern perfume extraction
techniques that have only really advanced in terms of equipment
available and synthetic ingredients.
The reliefs also show red berries poured from a container, which
details the nature of the products used to extract different scents.
The ingredients used in perfume were usually plant in origin such
as henna and cinnamon. The ancient natural philosopher, Pliny the
Elder, records floral scents such as iris, bitter almond and lilies
in his Natural History as being used in abundance. Myrrh which is
a resin from shrubs and other aromatic woods were used. Animal fats
such as musk are also recorded as being used in some perfumes. Some
Egyptian recipes are still in existence though they are difficult
to replicate.
However, the Egyptians had typically exotic tastes, and in addition
to home grown essences, they also imported aromatics such as ladanum
from Arabia and East Africa, galbanum from Persia, and the coveted
frankincense due to unsuccessful attempts to grow it in Egyptian
climes. The fact that ingredients were imported even in ancient
times shows the importance of perfume. The imported varieties were
expensive and initially reserved for the use of the gods or export
only.
Excavated reliefs show that from ancient times the blend and quantity
of perfume was as important as how long the scent would last. Perfume
was a major export material in ancient times with various countries
battling to produce the highest quality. Susinum was a particular
favourite, and the competitive nature shows that in ancient times,
some form of uniformity and standard was expected. Pliny the Elder
described an Egyptian perfume that retained its scent after 8 years,
and the ancient Greek botanist, Dioscorides, agreed that Egyptian
perfume was far superior to that made by other civilisations.
Egyptian perfumes were usually named after the town of production
or the main ingredient. Storage was in glass or stone vessels, with
alabaster being the most coveted. The decoration was ornate and
often bejewelled, with packaging reflecting modern day requirements
of functionality and attractiveness. Perfume was burnt as incense,
as named in documents from the reign of Thutmose III which detail
different varieties such as green incense and white incense. Perfume
was worn for aesthetic reasons, in the form of oil based liquid
infusions, or wax and fat for creams and salves. This suggests there
was also a medicinal purpose recognised.
Perfume was mainly for the elite classes until the golden age.
It was used by kings who were believed to be of divine descent as
it was believed that the gods favoured perfume. High officials were
anointed with perfume when they were appointed to office to call
the favour of the gods.
Incense was used to hide the smell of animal sacrifice during ceremonies.
Balms were seen as medicinal as perfume was thought to repel demons
and win the favour of the gods. Perfume was also an important part
of death and burial rites. Bodies were perfumed during mummification
as it was believed the soul would visit the gods and so perfume
would repel demons. Interestingly, 3300 years after Tutankhamen
death, scent could still be detected in his tomb.
Roberto Sedycias
IT Consultant for www.PoloMercantil.com.br
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